BY SHERIDAN SANSEGUNDO

When World Pie opened in 1999 I categorized it as an upscale pizza joint. Well, bite my tongue! This weekend we had a meal there that was as good, varied, and imaginative as any I have had on the South Fork in months.

In spite of the bitter cold, there were many diners and a throng of I’ve-gotta-get-outta-the-house-even-if-I-get-frostbite merrymakers at the bar.

World Pie’s main room, with its glossy redwood bar and plump banquette table in the window, is most attractive. The back room, which opens up to the outdoors in summer, is made cozier in winter by lighting so dim we couldn’t read the menu.

Wines by the glass are $6 to $9 with a few, listed as “kick-ass wines,” at $9 to $12. I advise ordering by the bottle, because the prices are very fair. A Marques de Riscal Reserve from Spain, for example, is well priced at $35. That is listed under “Hot Stuff.” Other wines are listed under similarly cutesy headings such as “Crisp and Clean and No Caffeine,” “Oaks and Apples,” “Smooth,” and “Bold and Beautiful.”

There is a big menu with about a dozen each of appetizers, salads, entrees, and pastas, with the whole middle section devoted to over 20 different pizzas. And as if that weren’t enough, the list of specials on Saturday included four appetizers and six entrees. World Pie is a restaurant for all pockets. Two people can have a beer, share a $12 pizza, and scarcely eat for less at home, or they can eat their way through the menu and spend a lot more.

If Crispy Artichoke ($9) is on the list of specials when you go to World Pie, grab it. This is the uber-artichoke, artichoke multiplied by five, artichoke accorded beatification by the pope. We couldn’t tell exactly how it had been cooked to make each petal crunchy but not tough, its center as sweet as honey, before it was crowned with green goddess dressing, but, then again, neither did we care.

From the regular menu came a reliable favorite, seared rare tuna slices ($10). The tuna was sparkling fresh and its lovely ocean flavor was perked up by its swim in some sort of spicy marinade beforehand. Served over sesame noodles and wakame seaweed it makes a great light starter.

Another winner was the grilled octopus salad ($9). The miniature octopi, pulled untimely from the sea, had a marvelous smoky flavor and the salad of pea shoots in a spicy lemon dressing with mixed olives was terrific. After that, the shaved fennel and grapefruit salad ($8), though it sounded exciting with its crumbled asiago cheese, toasted pine nuts, and apple cider vinaigrette, was rather tame. Perfectly nice, mind you, but lacking the pizazz of the other dishes.

Having done well on the appetizers, World Pie did even better on the entrees. The one pizza we tried — sundried tomato, mozzarella, artichoke hearts, goat cheese, and roast garlic ($13) — was delicious and almost as good heated up the next day. Unlike with most pizzas, the crust stayed crisp. I mention this because I defy anyone to eat one of the small pizzas by themselves, so if you order one you’ll have to persuade your dinner companions to help you out or take it home. It is too good to waste.

From the daily specials, we chose sautéed monkfish ($21), a fish of lovely texture but not a lot of taste. This one, served with lump crabmeat, lemon grass risotto, and kefir lime sauce, was totally successful and is highly recommended.

As is the tandoori chicken ($17). The chicken breast is very juicy and tender and rolled in tandoori spices and there is couscous served in a curry sauce, baba ganoush (a Mideast eggplant purée), and warm hummus. It provides a really interesting combination of flavors.

The lobster ravioli ($17), served with slow-roasted tomatoes, were very nice but the flavor of the lobster was not very apparent.

There is a fairly conventional list of desserts, including a homemade tartufo ice cream that was quite big enough to feed all four of us.

World Pie’s motto is “Enjoy Life, Eat Out, and Play Bocce.” I don’t think there is going to be much bocce playing in the next month or two, but if you eat out at World Pie, I think you will find that the first part of the motto will certainly follow.
Jan. 15, 2004